![]() Complex mixtures of dyes were present in most samples, as a result of both the ikat making process itself and traditional dyeing practices. These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC–DAD). Backstrap loom full#The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. They are readily distinguished from their closely related species by morphological characters such as stem height, leaf shape, pedicel, sepal and fruit indumentum, petal size, stigma shape and seed characters. Furthermore, two new species from West of Iran are described and illustrated here. Therefore, diversification within Hesperis was affected by global climate changes, substantial tectonic rearrangements and the expansion of open vegetation systems in the Miocene, all of which had a great impact on the speciation history of the Irano-Turanian flora and fauna. Divergence time estimations indicate that the origin of Hesperis (7.66–19.9 Mya) coincides with the expansion of grasslands and the closure of the proto-Mediterranean Sea in the middle Miocene. The split-graph corresponds to the major clades represented in the consensus tree and revealed a hybridization signal in the evolutionary history of only a single Hesperis species. NeighborNet network analysis was performed in order to visualize conflicting phylogenetic signals. Moreover, our phylogenetic analysis shows that almost all traditionally defined sections are not monophyletic. Based on our results, monophyly of the genus Hesperis has been proved. Here, we present for the first time comprehensive molecular analyses (nuclear ribosomal ITS sequences) of approximately 40 Hesperis species which represent the full range of morphological variation and the entire geographic distribution area of the genus. Despite its complicated taxonomy, the genus Hesperis has not yet been subjected to any detailed molecular phylogenetic study and little is known about its monophyly, origin and biogeographical history, as well as the evolution of morphological characters. ![]()
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